December 2023 was the month the turquoise ocean and the scent of Pastéis de Nata filled my senses to the brim. After thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail in 2021 and the Continental Divide Trail in 2023, I was eager to tackle my next challenge: the Portuguese Camino. Portugal called to me with its reputation for safety, vibrant culture, and welcoming atmosphere. But deep down, I knew this wasn’t just about travel—I was scouting my future home.
Solo travel, I imagined, would be terrifying yet empowering. And so, I went.
I wasn’t alone for long. Upon arrival, I met a vibrant mix of fellow solo travelers, each with stories of adventure and self-discovery. Their experiences inspired me to seek my own unique journey—a pilgrimage of sorts. Then, as if by fate, I stumbled upon a symbol I had only heard of in passing: the scallop shell, marking the Portuguese Camino. It reminded me of my first encounter with the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail. Without hesitation, I followed it. It was my second trip to Porto, Portugal and I thought, why not just follow the arrows. Unprepared? Absolutely. Clad in cotton, with no hydration or gear, I halted my spontaneous pursuit. But a fire had ignited in me. I had to return. I had to walk the Portuguese Camino.
A Race Against Time
July arrived faster than I expected. I found myself sitting in my van in a friend’s driveway in New Jersey, grappling with a reality every athlete dreads—impending surgery. After years of misdiagnoses and persistent pain from an Appalachian Trail injury, I was finally set to undergo ankle surgery in October.
The question loomed: should I wait until after recovery or squeeze in one more trek while I could?
I chose to go.
The Camino felt right. I had another major trek in Nepal scheduled for August, so why not embrace adventure while I could? I wasn’t reckless—after four years of physical therapy, bracing, and stubborn persistence, this was no different.
This time, my gear would be lighter. With hostels and albergues along the way, I ditched my tent and sleeping pad, opting for a quilt instead. My essentials: a headlamp, Sawyer water filter, two sets of clothes, a Kindle Paperwhite, rain gear, earplugs, and my Garmin inReach. It wasn’t much, but it was all I needed.
The Portuguese Camino bug
As my flight soared toward Lisbon, my mind raced with questions. Would I make friends? Does diversity on the trail? Are my Portuguese language skills proficient? Could I get lost? Unlike the Appalachian Trail or the Continental Divide Trail, the Camino had no FarOut app. I relied on the Buen Camino app and Stingy Nomads instead, studying routes obsessively.
The Portuguese Camino offered multiple paths. Lisbon promised history but also grueling road walks. Porto, with its coastal beauty, seemed more my speed. I decided to take the Littoral Route out of Porto, connect to the Coastal Route, then merge with the Central Route—possibly adding the Spiritual Variant if my heart led me there. I lea
Upon landing, I was immediately embraced by friends I had made during my December trip. We laughed, explored, and drank wine before I felt the undeniable pull of the trail. The day before I departed for Porto, I wandered into the Church of Santiago and received my first pilgrim stamp.
That’s when I met her—a woman from Cabo Verde who handed me my stamp and, upon seeing me, gasped in delight.
“This is amazing! I don’t see many of us Black folks out here,” she said, her eyes gleaming. “I’d love to be your friend.”
At that moment, I knew this journey would be different. Unlike my previous hikes, this was more than just a physical challenge—it was a spiritual calling.
Stepping Into the Unknown
On August 28th, I boarded a train solo for the first time in another country. As the landscape blurred past, the realization struck me: I was about to embark on something truly epic. Soon, I would walk through two countries, following the yellow arrows toward Santiago, Spain, wearing my scallop shell with pride.
So many before me had called this their favorite journey. Many had returned time and time again, drawn by the Portuguese Camino’s magic.
I was ready to find out why.
As the fog rolled in and my first yellow arrow came into view, I smiled and whispered to myself, “Estou pronta? Vamos!”
Here’s how my arrival went, watch the video below and don’t forget to subscribe!
